Vestmannaeyjar (Westman Islands)
- Luigi Morbidelli
- 6 days ago
- 4 min read
Vestmannaeyjar, or the Westman Islands, are an archipelago of 15 islands and 30 sea stacks off the southern coast of Iceland. In addition to their incredible natural beauty, the islands boast the world's largest population of summer-nesting puffins and a fascinating history.
The history of the Westman Islands is as dark as it is intriguing, and begins at the very beginning of Iceland's history, with the first family to settle here.
The first person known to have settled permanently in Iceland was a man named Ingólfr Arnarson (though it should be noted that he certainly didn't arrive alone: he was accompanied by his wife Hallveig Fróðadóttr and several slaves). His half-brother joined him in the country a few years later, but was killed at the hands of two of his own captured men.
These slaves attempted to escape and hide, to escape Arnarson's vengeance. They reached the Westman Islands, but were unfortunately found by the "Father of Iceland" and killed in retribution.
The islands have since been named after these men; they were Irish slaves, and at the time the Irish were called "Westmen," as Ireland was thought to be the westernmost mainland before the discovery of Iceland.
This brutal beginning would be a foreshadowing of the events that would later unfold on the archipelago.
The largest island, Heimaey, was colonized early in the era, and its inhabitants subsisted on the fertile oceans, puffins, and eggs. Life was challenging but manageable until a terrible tragedy struck in 1627.
At the height of the Ottoman Empire, the seas were dominated by pirates from Algiers, who managed to find their way to this small island. They guarded it for three days before departing with 237 slaves.
Most of them lived the rest of their lives in slavery, although some were ransomed in 1638.
The ordeals of the voyage and captivity were recounted in a novel by a priest who managed to escape in 1628.
Unfortunately, this was not the last great calamity to strike the islands.
By the 20th century, it seemed the Westman Islands had overcome their difficulties, modernizing and becoming better connected to the mainland. This, however, would be reversed in 1973.
At 1:55 a.m. on January 20, a fissure opened in the middle of the town of Heimaey, and the previously unknown Eldfell volcano began to erupt violently. Within hours, it swept across the island, spraying lava fountains to eye-level and spewing noxious gases into the atmosphere.
Incredibly, however, there were no casualties. There was a contingency plan in place for such a situation, and fortunately, the storms of the previous days had caused the entire fishing fleet to dock in the harbor. The entire population of the island was brought to safety.
This, however, did not mean the work was finished. The town contained 5,300 homes, and the Icelandic authorities were desperately trying to do everything possible to protect them. At the time, the United States had a NATO base in the country, and their help was requested.
By pumping seawater onto the large lava fronts, it was possible to cool the molten rock, slow it down, and change its direction.
This innovative technique, previously unused, proved particularly effective in protecting the harbor. At one point, it looked as if the eruption might close it completely, effectively destroying the island's economy. Yet, by spraying the lava, the harbor was actually closed and improved.
When the eruption ended, the island slowly repopulated, reaching about 85% of its previous population; about a fifth of the buildings were destroyed.
The city, however, now had a long strip of new land on which to build an airstrip and a volcano in the center of the island to attract guests. Since then, the Westman Islands have become a very popular tourist destination.
Today, the Westman Islands attract thousands of visitors for years, for a variety of reasons. Many wish to visit the Eldborg crater and learn about the eruption at the Eldheimar Museum. Others come for the incredible nature opportunities.
First and foremost is the chance to observe puffins. Ten million puffins nest in Iceland between May and September, and they are more numerous than anywhere else in the Westman Islands.
They nest in cliffs, crags, and sea stacks and can easily be seen while traveling on foot or by boat. Toward the end of the season, many puffins are confused by city lights while trying to head towards the ocean and end up on the road; it is therefore a local tradition among children to pick them up and throw them into the sea.
Puffins are just one of approximately thirty species that nest on the islands, but by far the most abundant.
The Westman Islands also boast some of the best whale watching in the country, with fin whales, minke whales, and humpback whales often spotted in summer, and orcas year-round.
Heimaey itself is home to the world's first beluga whale sanctuary. In exchange for a donation to the association, visitors can meet the Little White and Little Grey whales at their home in Klettsvik Bay.
See you soon!
Luigi
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